Sacred Places
A visit to Abbey Fontevraud has been high on my Loire bucket list. To reach Fontevraud, our driving directions took us past a military training area with bunkers, equipment, and warning signs that even French illiterates like me knew to Not Leave The Road Or Risk Projectiles. Driving past the military area TWICE left quiet pockets of contemplation today.
Over the centuries, the royal Abbey has served many purposes. It was created in the early 1100s by a preacher named Robert of Arbissel, and later divided its quarters to support two communities - one for men and one for women, but both under the authority of an Abbess. A succession of women leaders ran the Abbey Fontevraud from its inception until the dispersal of The Order with the French Revolution. In 1792, all property of the Catholic Church in France was declared property of the nation, and shortly thereafter, all monasteries were ordered to be evacuated. In less than 10 years after evacuation, the Abbey was seized by Napoleon and made into an infamous, ruthless penitentiary that would be in place for 150 years, housing as many as 2,000 inmates at one point. During the Nazi occupation, members of the French Resistance were imprisoned at Fontevraud. It was jarring to see the places built for sacred contemplation used also for such purposes. We certainly felt the air change when we ascended to see the penitentiary exhibits above the holy halls and cloister below.
Fontevraud is the final resting places for King Richard 1 of England (Richard the Lionheart), Queen Isabella, Queen Elanore of Aquitaine, and King Henry II of England. The exhibit with their tomb effigies used an entertaining animation to bring them to life. A separate highlight was the medieval building with many ceiling vents that was at one point dedicated to baking BREAD. The building looks like the real architectural wonder of a Nordic Bundt pan mold, now with modern art pieces standing in place of the ovens.
Our visit exceeded any ideas I had of Abbey Fontevraud. Words cannot reach the awe this place inspires. It really should be on everyone’s bucket list of places to see.
